The biggest problem in the built up area where we live is to make it fox proof but not unsightly. To this end we have spent a lot of money on climbing plants to cover the perimeter wire fencing. Underground the wire is 2'6" deep and inside the wire fence is an 18" concrete path with a 4' high brick wall. This is to stop ducklings from walking out of the garden. 

Wooden fencing is not a good idea in this area as we are only 100yds from the English Channel and the winds can cause fencing to be blown down, we have lost a lot of fencing this way.

The 6 ponds are concrete and they have all been covered with  fiberglass, all of which are connected by streams and the water is pumped around several filters. The 5th pond and surrounding area is solely for the use of young birds leaving the duckery. The second aviary encloses the 6th pond and it is a protected area purely for our NZBT, which over the years have proved to be very successful.  We have been rewarded with breeding awards from both the BWA and IWWA. 

Nesting boxes have to be varied for the type of ducks we keep. These vary from just small nesting areas to ground or raised boxes. We only ever use wood-shavings mixed with peat for nesting waterfowl.  All the boxes are cleaned and sprayed with disinfectant every year. We currently use 2 octagon 20 incubators, 2 octogon 10 and a brooder; this is quite adequate for our small collection.  

The feed we use, which is available to all the birds is:

• Wheat, pellets, mixed millet and floating sea duck diet and starter crumb for the young.

• Rob Harvey Specialist Feeds consisting of dried shrimp, moist egg food and insectivorous food.

• Jollyes working dog muesli, mixed millet

• Tinned dog food  

• Fresh mussels and white bait.

• Mealworms

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Developed By: Lee Daniels, Email: elwood_blues9@hotmail.com